Few places in Greece embody its mythological histories better than the large peninsula known as the Peloponnese. From its small quiet harbour towns on the crystalline coasts of the Aegean, to the rugged mountains sweeping across the inland, the plethora of ancient castles and ruins tell stories that combine both history and myth. The best way to follow this landscape’s legendary stories, is through a Peloponnese road trip.
When looking at a map of all the points of interest on the Peloponnese, it is easy to get overwhelmed. It’s hard to decide where to begin when planning a trip. This guide is a good place to start. It will bring you through all the Peloponnese’s main hot spots, as well as spots off the beaten path.
But enough beating around the bush. Let’s get to it.
Day 0: Prep Day: Renting the Car–>Corinth(Korinthos)
The first step of any road trip is getting the car. Having arrived in Athens, and not deciding I was even going to do a road trip until I got there, I spent my first 24 hours scurrying around the internet to find an affordable rental. In the end I returned to the airport to pick up my blue Opel Corsa. With my new ride in check, I headed to the Isthmus of Corinth. This is the official starting point of the Peloponnese road trip. A quick drive over to the modern city, and we can get a rather cheap hotel room. Let’s get well rested. Tomorrow we’re going to hit the ground running.
Budget
Renting a car in Greece can actually be pretty cheap. Manual transmissions can be rented for as little as 10-15 CAD/day. However, automatics are about 30-40 CAD/day. Either way, rental rates do receive reductions for longer rentals. I managed to rent my vehicle for about $32/day. While it wasn’t the strongest vehicle, or the best suited for off roading, it definitely got the job done. The car itself only makes up a fraction of the overall budget for the road trip, as gas in Greece can actually be quite pricy. Luckily, the Opel Corsa was pretty good on gas. For the following itinerary, you can expect to need to refuel every three days. Expect to pay about about 50 EUR for a full tank. Budget $25 CAD/day for gas.
Following my Greece budget guide for the remainder of the expenses, overall you should expect to pay a total of 80-100 CAD/day for the road trip. (100-115 CAD/day if you are driving automatic.)
Day 1: Korinthos–>Ancient Corinth–>Epidavros–>Mycenae–> Nafplio(Argos)
On the first official day of this road trip, we’re going to hit the ground running. It is jam-packed with some of the coolest ruins in Greece you are going to see. We are going to want to start the day early and head over to Ancient Corinth. Whether you are staying in the commercialized area just outside of the archeological site, or have opted for a budget hotel in the nearby modern city of Korinthos, you’re going to want to arrive at the site around 9:00 a.m. to give yourself enough time to fully explore the locations of the day’s itinerary.
Ancient Corinth
The first site of the day will take about an hour and half to two hours to get through, if you are like myself and like to read as much of the information as possible. Otherwise, if you are in for a speed run and focus strictly on the aesthetics of the museum and site, then you can probably get through it in about 45-minutes.
Epidavros
The next stop of the day is about an hour drive south, to the archeological site of Epidavros. This sites main attraction is a pretty amazing amphitheatre, the largest of the ancient world. Since the museum here is much smaller than Corinth, and the ruins not as well-preserved(except for the amphitheatre), it is easy to get through the site within an hour to an hour and fifteen minutes.
Mycenae
It’s time to get back in the car, and head to the final archeological site of the day, Ancient Mycenae. The seat of the Mycenaean civilization that dominated mainland Greece between 1600-1100 BCE. Home to the mythical king, Agamemnon, famous for leading the Greeks against the Trojans in Homer’s ‘Iliad’.
However, if you find your previous two stops take longer than you had planned, or if you happen across another interesting site while on the road, than we will add this stop to the following morning’s itinerary, and you can head to our final destination for the night.
And to end the night…
The best spot to spend the night is the seaport town, Nafplio, one of the most beautiful towns in Greece. However the nearby city of Argos is the much more affordable choice, sitting at a fraction of the cost. With its reduced required budget, and active and vibrant city centre worthy of exploration in its own right, I opted to spend the night in Argos.
Day 2: Argos–> Sampatiki
After the fully stacked itinerary of yesterday, today is going to flow at a slower pace. This will allow us to take in some of the relaxing nature of the Greek countryside. After getting a nights rest, and finding something to eat in the city centre of whichever respective city you spent the night, it is best to hit the road sometime between 10:00 and 11:00. If you were unable to make it to the final stop of the previous day, then it is time to hop up to Mycenae for a couple of hours.
Sampatiki
If you managed to cross that stop off before crashing for the night, then instead head down the eastern coast. Our destination, the small harbour town of Sampatiki. While not a big tourist destination, I had originally decided to stop here strictly for the reason of not wanting to drive three to four full hours to Monemvasia, and upon looking at a map, I picked this town out at random due to its location as being halfway between the two stops. However, this random stop is my favourite town in the entire Peloponnese.
With only two other tourists in the town, it felt as if I had the entire town to myself. I spent a relaxing day sipping the local brew, Mythos, while reading a book at a beach taverna.
In the evening, I headed up the hill overlooking the harbour village as the sun set over the mountain.
Day 3: Sampatiki–>Monemvasia(Note: Take the mountain pass through Leonidio)
After having been well rested from the previous day, it is best to wake up early. We’re going to want to spend as much time in Monemvasia as possible. I recommend getting out of Sampatiki by 9 o’clock to arrive at your destination before noon.
Luckily for me, as I was leaving the harbour town, I picked up a local hitchhiker making her way to the nearby town of Leonidio, which is located slightly inland from the coastal road. As I dropped her off in town, she pointed out an alternative route that cuts its way through the mountainous terrain of the inland. While the coastal road is beautiful in its own right, this route offers a nice change up from the rest of the drive. It offers beautiful views of the vast interior landscape, while bringing you through quaint mountain villages before arriving at your destination.
Upon arriving in Monemvasia, it’s best to get a room in the mainland town overlooking the jutting rock.
Monemvasia
After getting our rooms, it’s a quick walk over the causeway, and around the southern side of the island. Here we will find the outer wall that separates the island town from the rest of the world. Tracing its history back to 583 AD, the town itself is well maintained, and is still in operation. Here you can find several homes, souvenir shops, and Greek tavernas overlooking the Aegean.
Further up at the island’s plateau, lay the remnants of the old Ottoman fortress that once presided over the town. While not as well-preserved, it offers an intriguing insight into its past. The view from the fortress overlooks the beautiful Greek mainland, and the vast flowing waves of the crystalline Aegean.
Day 4: Monemvasia–>Gythio(Mavrovouni)
Now we continue our drive clockwise around the peninsula, until we come to the seaside town of Gytheio. While not our final destination for the day, it is worth a stop at a taverna on the town’s waterfront. While here, we may as well explore the towns active shopping scene.
After an hour or two of exploring this larger town, we will make a short drive out to the smaller town of Mavrovouni, where we will spend the night . After checking in to our rooms, we have plenty of time to head to the beach. Here we can enjoy the rest of the day as the sun sets over the western hills.
Day 5: Mavrovouni–>Gates of Hades/Lighthouse Tenaro hike–>Kalamata. (Optional stop: Sparta)
From Mavrovouni we are now going to head down to the southern point of the Mani Peninsula. Referred to as the Gates of Hades, this region was once considered to be the mythical entrance to the underworld. From here it is a quick hike past a beautifully clear bay, and through the cliffs that lead to the southern most point of the Greek mainland, where the Tenaro Lighthouse stands sentinel over the celebrated Aegean.
After taking in the view, it is time to return to our cars, and head back north. This time sticking to the western side of the peninsula.
Now we have the option to either head to Sparta, or directly to Kalamata where we’ll be spending the night. While a huge fan of Ancient Sparta myself, a local informed me that nothing of the ancient city remained. Since I planned on stopping at Thermopylae later in my road trip anyway, I opted out of this stop. Instead, I spent the remainder of the day in Kalamata, taking in the shops and restaurants of the Peloponnese’ second largest city.
Day 6: Kalamata–> Messene–>Foinikounta
From Kalamata we are going to jump to the north. A quick 40-minute drive will have us arriving at the archeological site of Messene. My favourite of the entire road trip.
While not as famous as those in Olympia or Delphi, Messene’s relative anonymity means you have the opportunity to experience the well-preserved ruins with a much lighter crowd. The highlights of the archeological site are the Asclepeion, the ancient healing temples dedicated to the mythical doctor/demigod Asclepius, as well as the large, well-preserved stadios, the buildings where the ancient city once held their athletic competitions. After immersing in the history of the ruined city, we will now head south, to the beach town of Foinikounta. Here we can spend the rest of the day relaxing under an umbrella with a cold Mythos on the beach.
Day 7: Beach day(Tuesday)
This day is going to be a write-off. Depending on what day of the week you start your road trip on, you’ll likely have to adjust this itinerary. This is because many of the main stops of the trip will find themselves closed on Tuesdays. So instead of missing out on them entirely, it is better to take a break from driving. Let’s grab another beer. Or maybe we can go for a hike along the coast.
Day 8: Foinikounta–>Methoni–>Pylos Castle–>Hike to Old Navarino Castle/Cave of Nestor/Voidokilia Bay–>Filiatra
After having that nice rest day, it is time to hit the ground running. This leg of the trip has a lot of ground to cover, with a lot of stops along the way. As this is going to be the most expensive region of the road trip, it is best to hit all the stops in a single day in order to spend the night in one of the cheaper destinations. The first stop is a 15-minute drive from Foinikounta, on the Peloponnese’s western coast.
Methoni
Methoni Castle’s location makes it one of the country’s most beautiful ruins to explore. While the harbour’s origins can be traced all the way back to the ancient times as the city Pedasus mentioned in Homer’s “Iliad,” the construction of the fortifications and the castle itself did not begin until 1209 AD, under the occupation of the Venetians, and were completed in phases over three centuries.
Pylos Castle
Another 15-minute drive North is going to bring us to another archeological site. That of Niokastron castle. While much newer than previously visited sites, the Turks built Niokastron in 1573. It is an amazing landmark to explore with its hexagonal courtyard and castle walls overlooking one of the country’s most beautiful bays.
Old Navarino Castle
Another short drive around the bay leads to a hiking trail that will bring you up to Old Navarino Castle. Built about four centuries before Niokastron, this castle is not as well-preserved as its neighbour, and lacks any archeological activity or public maintenance.
Voidkilia Bay and The Cave of Nestor
However this lack of human interference gives these ruins an organic feel as you push your way through the overgrown shrubs to reach the other side of the mountain. Once there, another trail will bring you down to the Cave of Nestor. The site where according to mythology Hermes had once hid the 50 cattle he had stolen from Apollo.
A little further down the trail is the beach of Voidkilia bay. One of the most beautiful beaches in all the Mediterranean, and a perfect spot to grab some pictures before heading back over the mountain. Since I had gotten stuck in some mud earlier in the day, and had lost a couple of hours getting out, I only had enough time to take a quick dip in the water, and a walk around the bay before heading back.
Affordable accommodation
However at this point you can decide whether you want to spend an hour or two enjoying the beach, or to get a head start on tomorrow’s itinerary by heading to the Palace of Nestor. Either way we are going to end up spending the night in Filiatra. While the city itself doesn’t have a lot to offer, it is by far the cheapest accommodations in the area.
Day 9: Filiatra–>Palace of Nestor–>Ancient Olympia
If you didn’t make it the previous day, then now is the time to head to the Palace of Nestor. This stop isn’t anything spectacular. But as a fan of the Homeric epics, I couldn’t miss out on the palace of one of its heroes. 15-minutes is more than enough time to see what this stop has to offer, and we are now free to head to the much larger, and more famous Olympia.
Archeological Site of Ancient Olympia
You are going to want to arrive in Olympia at the latest by noon, as there is a plethora of stops to make within the area. The first place you are going to want to check out is the archeological site of the ancient city itself. While one of the most crowded archaeological sites on the Peloponnese, the site still maintains the effect of disconnecting you from modernity as you walk the stone streets.
Some ruins the site has to offer consist of the Ancient Olympic track, the training facilities and housing accommodations for athletes and diplomats alike.
There are also several temples dedicated to various gods. The most impressive being the Temple of Zeus which had housed one of the seven wonders of the Ancient World. While the Statue of Zeus has long been removed from the temple, and destroyed in the process, the workshop of its sculptor, Phidias, remains one of the more intact ruins of the site.
Archeological Museum of Olympia
After having experienced the site and constructing a mental map of the ancient city, we will jump over to the Archeological Museum of Olympia. Here the displays of some of the most famous sculptures of Ancient Greece can be found on display. The highlights of the museum include the Nike of Paionios and Hermes by Praxiteles. Along with its vast collection of bronze tools and weapons found within the city, the museum paints a picture of what the Ancient city was like.
Museum of the History of the Olympic Games of Antiquity
The final stop of the day is the Museum of the History of the Olympic Games of Antiquity. While a much smaller museum, it offers a look into the lifestyle of the athletic event’s ancient participants. From how they were chosen to compete and to which events, to the fame and glory that came with winning.
Now it is time to head back to the modern commercialized town just outside the borders of the archeological site. Here we will be spending the remainder of our last night on the Peloponnese. Tomorrow is going to see us headed north, and off the peninsula.
Day 10: Ancient Olympia–>Archeological Museum of Patras–>Nafpaktos
After the busyness of the previous day, we’re going to slow things down a bit, and start the day off with a relaxed morning. I recommend taking a little time to wander the town during the morning hours. Pop in at one of the tavernas for a quick breakfast, or simply take your time repacking.
Once you are ready to hit the road, we are going to head north along the coast to the largest city on the Peloponnese(and the third largest in all of Greece), Patras. Our first and only stop here is going to be the Archeological Museum.
Archeological Museum of Patras
Constructed in 2009, the museum has three sections dedicated to telling the stories of the region’s private lives, public lives, and funerary practices, as well as a fourth periodic section that will house a number of exhibits. While the museum does not house anything wholly unique from the others of the country, I did thoroughly enjoy their displays, and highly recommend the quick stop when passing through the area.
Nafpaktos
When we are done in the city, we are going to continue north and cross the Rion-Antirion Bridge, which can be seen from the city’s shore. From here you are free to explore the surrounding area.
However, I do suggest spending the night in Nafpaktos. Here I was able to find slightly cheaper accommodation at a taverna hotel with a view of Rion-Antirion Bridge and Patras to the right of the coastline, offering a nice foreground as the sun sets behind it in the evening.
Day 11: Nafpaktos–>Delphi–>(optional stop: Arachova)–>Kamena Vourla
Having now left the Peloponnese, we are going to head to one of the most popular tourist attractions of mainland Greece. The Archeological site of Ancient Delphi.
Once considered to be the centre of the Ancient World, Delphi is home to a wide range of historical, mythological, and architectural artifacts, and overlooks the beautiful mountain ranges of the Pythia region, making it easy to lose a whole day exploring the site in its entirety.
One of the highlights of the region is the archeological site itself, which will bring us through the ‘Sacred Way.’ The path that would have been taken by pilgrims of antiquity through the Sanctuary of Apollo.
The Ruins of Ancient Delphi
This path will bring us past famous landmarks, such as the Temple of Apollo, the treasury of the Athenians, the theatre overlooking the awe-inspiring landscape, and the ancient stadion at the top of the sanctuary. Further highlights of the area are the Castalion Springs, the Tholos at the Temple of Athena that sits lower down on the cliff side, and the Archeological Museum of Delphi, which with its displays of sculptures that were once gifted to Delphi from some of the most famous artists of Ancient Greece and surrounding regions, quickly became one of my favourite museums of the country.
Arachova or Kamena Vourla: Where To Spend The Night?
While the modern city is also a beautiful location, it is far cheaper to continue eastward for the night. This drive will bring us through the city of Arachova which dominates the mountainside. While I did not make the stop, it has become a destination I would like to return to. However, I continued to drive all the way to Kamena Vourla on the Malian Gulf. Here I spent the night at a seaside taverna with a Mythos and “The Count of Monte Cristo.”
Day 12: Kamena Vourla–>Mt. Pelion(Pala Nera hike to Milies)–>Platanidia
After a well rested night, we’re going to get an early start on the day. We have a long hike ahead of us.
But first we must jump back into our cars, and drive around to the other side of the gulf. To the Mt. Pelion region. Parking our cars at Pala Nera beach, we’re going to head to the main road and find the path that leads to the start of the hike.
A Hike Through Mt. Pelion
While Alltrails doesn’t have the hike marked for the route, the trail I have highlighted in the picture below can still be found on the app, and you can follow your progress along it. This hike brings us through seas of olive trees, along a forest creek, and over a stone bridge. All along the ridges of Mt. Pelion, where it was said the centaurs had once lived and trained the mythical heroes of legends. In fact, for those intrepid hikers out there who wouldn’t mind adding another day’s hike, there is an even further trail that will bring you down to a distant beach, home to Chiron’s Cave.
However, for us average travellers, Milies is going to mark the end of our hike. After enjoying a lunch in the courtyard of the church, we are going to head back along the same trail. While there are guides online for a loop trail that would bring you back to Pala Nera via an alternative route, these guides may be a little outdated, as the trails here are not as well maintained.
However, I tried to do the loop. While I did enjoy the route, I found myself constantly confronted by overgrowth either blocking my way, or hiding the trail entirely. At one point I ended up getting lost. Only by using Alltrails did I managed to cut my way through the olive trees until I found my way back to the trail I had taken to get to Milies around its halfway point. Attempt the loop at your own risk.
Finding a Restful Respite in Platanidia
From here I was easily able to find my way back to Pala Nera. A short drive later, and I was in the small fishing town of Platanidia, where I had booked a room in a local taverna for the night. While not a big stop for tourists, the small town was super friendly and accommodating, with the hotel owner even offering me a slice of her delicious Moussaka which she had prepared as her own meal.
Day 13: Platanidia–>Portaria(Path of Centaurs)–>Thermopylae–>Kamena Vourla
As the last full day with the car, we have only two stops before returning to the seaside town of Kamena Vourla, where we will spend our last night. Since we are already in the homeland of the legendary centaurs, there was one hiking trail that caught my eye. The Path of Centaurs in Portaria. With amazing reviews of the ‘fantastical aura’ that seems to encompass the breadth of the trail, I was eager to experience it myself. However, while the trail itself was rather engrossing, it wasn’t quite what I was expecting.
The Path of Centaurs
I expected the trail to be through some archaic forest, with remnants of some lost civilization marking my path through. That was most definitely not the case. Instead, upon approaching the beginning of the trail, you make your way past the several tavernas and souvenir shops that line the town of Portaria. This is where you come across an archway in the middle of the community with a sign reading “The Path of Centaurs.”
While it cuts through the heart of a rather active community, and is maintained as a public park and tourist attraction, this short hike is actually pretty cool. It does an amazing job at cutting off the outside world, even though the town is virtually surrounding it. It offers an exciting, engaging experience as you scurry your way along the crackling creek that flows its way under the wood bridges, and along the cascading rocks beneath.
The Legendary ‘Hot Gates’ of Thermopylae
After this short hike, I suggest we head somewhere with a little more of an organic history. Our next stop are the ‘Hot Gates,’ of Thermopylae. The site where the 300 Spartans and 7000 Greek soldiers held off the far superior Persian forces for seven days. This is just a quick stop, as there is not a ton to see, but as a big fan of the movie 300, it was a stop I needed to make.
While the ancient hot springs are still active, online reviews informed me that they have been poorly kept. As such I opted to skip them all together. Instead I kept it a quick stop at the monument honouring King Leonidas and his soldiers.
I later discovered that there was a hike in the area that retraced the path Ephiliates’ had taken as he led the Persians through the Hot Gates. While I had run out of time to do it, I would definitely go back just to experience that piece of history.
Once we’re done in Therompylae, its time to head back to the seaside tavernas of Kamena Vourla.
Day 14: Kamena Vourla–>Athens
Sadly, today is the day we must say goodbye to our valiant steeds(rental cars) that have braved the rugged mountain roads of the Peloponnese and central regions of mainland Greece. However fear not, as there is still much of Greece left to explore. I for one have decided to trade one ride in for another. My next destination is to jump down south for a road trip around the historic Greek island of Crete. Stay tuned for the itinerary.
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