Sulawesi, Indonesia, is an island largely untouched by mass tourism. For anyone considering a visit, Sulawesi offers a mix of natural beauty, cultural experiences, and genuine hospitality., offering a unique and authentic experience for those adventurous enough to explore it.
In this Sulawesi travel guide, I’ll take you through my journey across the island, where I encountered only a handful of foreigners beyond the well-known destination of Bunaken in the north. Instead, most tourists here are local Indonesians from neighbouring islands, just as excited to meet a bule (a western tourist) as they are to visit this stunning destination.
Foreign tourists are so rare that many locals treat you like a celebrity, stopping you on the streets to take photos. However, since tourism here is still in its infancy, you’ll find that the infrastructure to traverse the island lacks, making your journey all the more challenging—and rewarding.
Completing the trek from Makassar in the south to Manado in the north, you’ll realize that no other island in Indonesia offers the same richness in culture and diversity as Sulawesi. There’s also a special pride in being one of the few brave enough to conquer this hidden gem, all while sharing meals and stories with your newfound friends in Bunaken.
Don’t forget to check out my Indonesia Travel Guide for more information.
My Itinerary (South Sulawesi to North Sulawesi)
Landing in Makassar
Alright, I’m going to be straight with you here. When I landed in Makassar, I was not impressed. As my first experience anywhere in Asia, I had deludedly idealized the Oriental images of vast rice fields, crimson pagodas, and tranquil ponds.
However, Makassar contrasted that image so horribly with its rundown roads and tall, beaten buildings that looked as if they would collapse given a strong breeze.
Upon arriving at the hostel, I found I was not sharing a room with fellow backpackers, whom I expected to interact with, but with locals who seemed to be living in the accommodation and were not too keen on meeting a tourist.
The fact that few people spoke English made it difficult for me to order anything to eat. I resorted to spending the evening of my arrival in the country in my bed, determined to leave at my first opportunity.
Rammang-Rammang
Alright, so this is where things started to get good. Upon waking up, I walked down to the hostel’s lobby, where I met the owner, Mister Beardus. Upon talking with him, he offered to arrange my trip through Sulawesi. Considering my surprise with the island’s infrastructure, I opted for this route.
However, the earliest bus out of the city wasn’t until the following day, so at Mr. Beardus’ suggestion, I decided to make a day trip to Rammang-Rammang. Only an hour out of the city, we arrived at a small river into a gorge through a range of mountains that litter the Sulawesi landscape.
Upon emerging from the other side, the gorge opens into a large valley where a small village of 8 families is centred in the middle of rice fields (see top photo). I was hoping for this image of Asia when I arrived in Indonesia. Being it was the off-season on an already not well-travelled island, I was alone in this peaceful village, free to interact with the locals and explore the many oddities of the valley.
Rammang-Rammang abolished any negative doubts I had developed about the island during my arrival in Makassar and began the culture shock that was the entirety of my experiences in Sulawesi. Unlike other Indonesian islands, Sulawesi remains unique, less touristy, and part of the sprawling Indonesian archipelago.
Tona Toraja
After a 12-hour bus ride through the winding mountain roads, I finally arrived in Rantepao, the main village of the Tana Toraja region, where (thanks to Mister Beardus) I was met by Rami, who would bring me to my homestay and act as my local guide around the region for the following three days.
The highlight of this region for me was the simple act of scootering around the majestic mountain villages of Tana Toraja with their Tongkonan houses and admiring the sheer beauty of the mountainous landscape.
However, the main draw to the region is the unique funeral ceremonies in Tana Toraja, which I was fortunate enough to experience. These funerals are massive celebrations for the locals, often taking years of preparation and planning. During this time, the body of the deceased is kept within the house of the family while the living residents continue to interact with the body as if it were still alive.
Each funeral sees numerous sacrifices of buffalo. The more of which you sacrifice, the more prestige you garner for the dead and their family. Buffaloes play a significant role in Torajan funeral customs. The price of a buffalo often reflects the family’s status in the community, and these animals are regarded as vital symbols of respect and wealth.
In Toraja, relatives spend extended periods with the deceased before the funeral, seeing this as a meaningful farewell. The ceremonies are elaborate, lasting several days and involving the entire community. It’s a cultural experience, unlike anything I’ve witnessed elsewhere, showcasing the Torajan people’s deep respect for their traditions and loved ones.
Additionally, the presence of foreign guests at these ceremonies highlights the standing of the family within the community, often signalling the deceased’s importance and influence.
The funerals are also characterized by unique traditions, including tau—wooden effigies representing the deceased. These effigies are carefully dressed in the person’s clothes and serve as enduring symbols of family pride. Families even re-dress the tau in special ceremonies every few years, reinforcing the bond between the living and the departed.
One interesting note is that many Torajan funerals don’t occur on Sundays or on major Christian holidays like Christmas and Easter. Christianity is a prominent influence in the region, and these days are reserved for religious observances, adding another layer of cultural complexity to the experience.
Tentena
After leaving Toraja in a state of anxious culture shock, I was ready for the relaxing vibes of the small lake town of Tentena. After another harrowing bus ride through the mountains, I was again picked up at the bus stop and delivered to my homestay to prepare for the next day.
While only staying for two nights in Tentena, I rented a scooter to take advantage of the one full day I had there. I began riding around the lake, through villages and many Hindu temples, with a brief break at a lakeside resort.
After my stressful time in Toraja, it was a perfect way to relax. However, my next stop would become my pinnacle standard for relaxation.
The Togean Islands
Considered a world-class location for diving, like much of Sulawesi, the Togean Islands are not easy to get to, with only a few ferries headed to the islands each week. This can also make it rather difficult to leave the islands if you miss it or if one gets cancelled, which happened to be the case for me and a few friends.
However, arriving at the port, you may be able to negotiate a price with one of the small cargo ships that go between the island and Ampana, but it will take much longer than one of the regular boats.
Arriving at the islands, you are welcomed with turquoise waters and white sand beaches that lead to isolated resorts. Each resort has its own plot on an island, so much so that it is impossible to access these locations unless the hotel sends its own boat to pick you up at the main docks to shuttle you over to the neighbouring island or beach it occupies.
The islands are also home to one of the only two locations in the world where you can swim with jellyfish, where their isolation in the lake has resulted in them evolving without stingers.
As I said earlier, diving is huge on these islands, with several nearby shipwrecks and the crash site of an old fighter plane just waiting to be explored. Malenge Island, one of the Togean Islands’ highlights, is also worth a visit, rewarding a serene and unspoiled destination perfect for spotting sea turtles and exploring some of the Coral Triangle’s most vibrant dive sites.
For the adventurous, inquire about nearby deserted islands. If you can find a ride, spend a night alone to enjoy true isolation. If you are lucky, you will be rewarded with a light show of bioluminescent algae.
Gorontalo
After the worst ferry ride of my life, we arrived in Gorontalo. Besides being the city where the ferry disembarks, the city’s only other big draw is that you can swim with whale sharks, the largest living species of fish.
Unfortunately, after waiting hours for a whale shark to show up, we had to give up. It was unlucky since they had at least one show-up every day for the past few weeks before we arrived. We moved on from Gorontalo the same day we got there without the sense of missing anything.
Tomohon
Being 1000 meters above sea level, like Toraja, Tomohon is another mountain village. It is easy to get lost in the rolling hills that can mesmerize in the way they seem to grow out of one another, especially when the thick fog begins to roll in, completely transporting you to a new world that feels like the mirror dimension from Doctor Strange.
For me, the highlight of this town was riding the scooters up and down the hills around Mount Mahawu. However, its main draw is to experience its unique animal market.
It was interesting, but I’d had enough once I saw a fried dog sitting on a table. Bringing back flashbacks from Toraja, where I had witnessed the death of so many animals and was even tricked into trying dog meat, I decided it was one of those cultural experiences that was cool to see but ultimately wasn’t really for me.
Bunaken
Another quick jaunt got us to the capital city of North Sulawesi, Manado, and from there, we caught a ferry to the idyllic island of Bunaken Island, which currently holds the title of my all-time favourite tropical island.
While, like the rest of Sulawesi, mass tourism has yet to find its way to Bunaken, there is still a significantly larger tourist presence than in the southern part of the island, and it is becoming a fantastic getaway resort island for divers.
Like the Togeans, Bunaken National Park is world-class for snorkelling and diving around the massive reefs of this volcanic island. I don’t need to say much more than that because there is little more one could ask for than a pristine and untouched beach on the shores of this beautiful small island.
The island is also home to the famous Ancehi Resort, where I treated myself to three days of luxury on a private beachfront property.
After a few days in paradise, I was off to Manado Airport to catch one of the few internal flights down to another idealized island, Bali.
Missed List
Lore Lindu National Park
Nestled in the mountainous interior of Central Sulawesi, Lore Lindu National Park is a vast expanse of lush rainforests and remote villages. It’s known for its rich biodiversity, including rare endemic birds and the distinctive babirusa. The area’s ancient megaliths add a mysterious element, making the park a destination for nature enthusiasts and history buffs alike. This nature reserve also offers hiking trails that lead through verdant forests and past tranquil rivers, showcasing Sulawesi’s untouched beauty.
Tangkoko National Park
Situated in North Sulawesi near Manado, Tangkoko National Park is a must-visit for wildlife lovers. It’s home to the endangered black crested macaque and the world’s smallest primate, the spectral tarsier. This park’s unique blend of tropical flora and fauna provides a rare opportunity to spot animals that can’t be found elsewhere. A guided tour through Tangkoko allows you to experience its abundant birdlife, lush forests, and striking coastal views, making it an essential stop for eco-tourists.
Lembeh Island
A diver’s paradise, Lembeh Island is globally recognized for muck diving. Its murky waters are home to an astonishing diversity of marine life, including unusual critters like the flamboyant cuttlefish, pygmy seahorses, and rare nudibranchs. The Lembeh Strait offers some of the best macro photography opportunities in the world, drawing underwater photographers and seasoned divers alike. Even beyond the water, Lembeh Island boasts beautiful settings and a serene atmosphere, making it a memorable addition to any Sulawesi itinerary.
Wakatobi Islands
Located on the southwest coast of Sulawesi, the Wakatobi Islands is yet another hot spot for divers; with over 50 named diving locations, this area has one of Indonesia’s highest marine species diversity. This island chain is protected as the Wakatobi National Park and is home to sea gypsies with villages standing in the middle of the ocean.
Lake Tondano
Surrounded by mountains and 600 metres above sea level, Lake Tondano is the largest lake in Sulawesi. While the big tourist attraction in the region is the resort located in Remboken, the lake is a beautiful location for hiking or engaging in water sports.
Food
Warning: Beware of cuisine labelled with r.w.(Pronounce; Air Weh). This is the symbol of Minhasan cuisine, which utilizes dog meat.
Coto Makassar
The most popular dish of Makassar in South Sulawesi, this thick soup is often made of beef and innards, including tripe, brain, lungs, or intestines.
Pisang Epe
A popular dessert in Sulawesi and often found sold by street merchants, this fried banana is usually served with Carmel, chocolate or brown sugar.
Budget – $30 Per Day
Accommodation
So Sulawesi has very few hostels. The only one I discovered was the one in Makassar, where I stayed, and for this reason, the accommodation costs of this island are a little more than what you can expect for the rest of Indonesia. The average price you can expect to pay for a private room at a homestay or hotel is between $10-$15, the upside being that, typically, these accommodations are very nice compared to what you get on other islands.
Transportation
For transport between regions, you can expect to pay $10 for a bus; however, these buses’ are extremely uncomfortable, and if you can find a couple of people to split the cost with, I’d recommend spending the extra on a shared cab. If you can get at least two other people to split the cost with you, you can expect to pay between $25-$30. Your transport cost within the region will be about $7/day for scooters, except for Tomohon, which charges a $15/day premium. Your total expected transport costs are around $10-$15/day.
Activities
Activities can be cheap. You can expect to pay about $100-$150 for diving. However, I did not dive so that I won’t count it into my budget here. Some hotels will give you snorkel gear for free. Others may charge you $10. Besides that, my main activity was scootering around, which I have taken into account under transportation, and honestly, to fill the tank of a scooter was like $1, so it really doesn’t hurt the budget. What got me was my guide in Toraja, which cost me $50/day. A guide to that region is necessary to experience it fully. However, I recommend using him for two days as opposed to the three I paid for. Despite that, most of the time, you won’t need to spend anything for activities if you are satisfied exploring by scooter, and for that reason, we will add only $5-$10/day to the budget for activities.
Food and Drink
Food is super cheap here if you stick to street food, which can be pretty impressive (soto ayam is my favourite), but you can expect to pay $1-$3 for a meal, and so say you will probably spend an average of $7/day on food. If you like to drink, this is going to run the price up a bit. As a primarily Muslim country in the south, it isn’t easy to find something to drink, but when you do, they are larger beers and cost about $3 on top of your budget. It’s cheaper in other parts of Indonesia, so for the sake of this budget, I will limit the maximum number of drinks per day to 2 and only add $0-$6/day.
Budgeting tips
- Shared rides are a must. You can keep it cheap by taking the bus, but besides the Makassar—Rentepao bus, which was pretty comfortable, the buses are tiny, and you do not want to be that tight up against someone for a 12-hour bus ride through the winding mountain roads.
- Traveling by night is another way to save. For example, using a night bus not only gets you to your destination but also means you can skip an overnight stay, combining transportation with accommodation costs.
- Consider public ferry routes where available. They’re often cheaper than air travel and give you a more scenic view of the surrounding islands.
- Pack meals from local food stalls before long journeys. Preparing your meals beforehand will help avoid spending extra at rest stops or pricier eateries.
- If you can, choose accommodations that include breakfast or provide a small kitchenette. This way, you can save on some meals and stretch your budget further.
- Try to limit drinking. Travelling goes hand in hand with drinking, but getting carried away here is a good way to double your budget costs.
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